Ventenac's Cassandre, Vin de France 2020: brilliantly vinified Vermentino grown in Cabardès, Languedoc. Sappy, vinous, saline; tropical fruit and a curl of lemon peel; tension - and a smile to finish. Throw in an aftertaste of green almond, and if you're worried about alcohol (which I'm not), it's only 12%. Brilliant work from youngsters Stéphanie and Olivier Ramé."
